From the Ionian Islands we ferried back to the mainland and drove north to Igoumenitsa, a port city with several ferry lines running across to the south of Italy. The crossing was overnight and took about 10 hours which was perfect as we slept through most of it anyway. The noise of the engines and the waves crashing on the hull were reminiscent of our cruise ship days and even the smell in the crew area was the same, a particular mix of grease, sweat and stale cigarette smoke that is hard to define but very particular to ships.
Once we arrived in Italy we headed straight for Sicily as we were meeting up with friends who were there on holidays to see family. Sicily is one of those places that you can´t see in a rush, and we left after a week with the distinct feeling that we had barely scratched the surface of what the island has to see and do. Politically, it´s part of Italy… geographically, closer to north Africa and culturally, it´s a land all of it´s own. We spent most of our time in and around the city of Siracusa, with short day trips to Marzamemi and the fish market in Catania, which was an incredible experience. All the more visceral because I was wearing Havaianas and by the end of the day my feet were coated in fish scales and stinky unidentified gunk as the cement floor is flooded with fishy water. A fragrant experience, to say the least.
From Lefkada we boarded an early morning ferry to Kefalonia, arriving in Fiskardo on the northern tip of the island. Kefalonia is posh. Beautiful, but not wild and ramshackle like Lefkada had been. There is a lot of tourism here and a lot of rich people, which means that towns are clean and beautifully restored… lovely for photos but lacking just a little bit in soul. We were also unceremoniously chased off of Myrtos beach halfway through cooking our supper as apparently campers are not allowed to overnight there. Since it is not illegal to park and sleep on public land in Greece and we had never had issues with this anywhere in the country before, it was a bit of an unexpected shock and again a sign of the wealthy attitude that we hadn’t encountered elsewhere (and didn’t encounter again anywhere else in Greece) So Kefalonia, while beautiful, didn’t capture any special places in our hearts and we didn’t feel inspired to stick around for very long.