After leaving the French Alps we wandered around the lakes of northern Italy… Maggiore, Como, Orta and Lugano. Lake Lugano shares its shoreline with Switzerland so in the name of in-depth exploration we crossed the border, only to be shocked at how expensive it is there… and when an crotchety old man with more money than brains reversed his (very expensive) car into our van and then just drove off without checking to see what he´d damaged, we thought that we should really rather get back to Italy, where people are just as likely to reverse into you but at least…