From the Ionian Islands we ferried back to the mainland and drove north to Igoumenitsa, a port city with several ferry lines running across to the south of Italy. The crossing was overnight and took about 10 hours which was perfect as we slept through most of it anyway. The noise of the engines and the waves crashing on the hull were reminiscent of our cruise ship days and even the smell in the crew area was the same, a particular mix of grease, sweat and stale cigarette smoke that is hard to define but very particular to ships. Once…
Category: Van Life
Ithaki | Greece
From Kefalonia we hopped onto another ferry to Ithaki, a tiny unassuming island that turned out to be the highlight of Greece, maybe even the highlight of the entire trip? Hard to say… but it´s up there in our top 5 favourite places. We arrived in mid September, so the tourist season was well and truly over, but the weather was still great and we had the place more or less to ourselves. I´m sure that in August the vibe would have been quite different, but during the time we were there, the island was sleepy and laid-back. Locals just…
Kefalonia | Greece
From Lefkada we boarded an early morning ferry to Kefalonia, arriving in Fiskardo on the northern tip of the island. Kefalonia is posh. Beautiful, but not wild and ramshackle like Lefkada had been. There is a lot of tourism here and a lot of rich people, which means that towns are clean and beautifully restored… lovely for photos but lacking just a little bit in soul. We were also unceremoniously chased off of Myrtos beach halfway through cooking our supper as apparently campers are not allowed to overnight there. Since it is not illegal to park and sleep on public…
Lefkada | Greece
Lefkada was an unknown island to us, we´d never heard of it but it made it onto our trip itinerary because of the fact that it has a bridge connecting it to the mainland, which meant one less ferry trip in the van, which was good for our dwindling budget. But I am glad we visited because not only does this island have some seriously mind-blowingly beautiful beaches, but also produces some of the best honey I have ever tasted. The entire island is blanketed in wild thyme and sage, it is a bee paradise and the honey is sublime….
Corfu | Greece
After our short but sweet adventures through Albania we crossed the border into Greece, an event we´d been somewhat dreading because of our dog but absolutely nobody cared one bit about him or his passport and we were waved through somewhat impatiently, as it was almost dinner time and we got the feeling the border officials would rather be elsewhere. We headed to Igoumenitsa where we boarded a ferry to Corfu and began island hopping through the Ionian Islands. Corfu is simultaneously terrible and wonderful… a double edged sword of tacky tourism in the south together with incredible mountainous landscapes…
Montenegro & Albania
Oh hey there!! It´s been a while… but I´m still here, and after an embarrassingly long break in updates (summer is always crazy and this little blog of mine gets a bit neglected) I am back, as if nothing happened, to continue sharing our campervan journey through southern and eastern Europe. We were apprehensive about Montenegro and particularly Albania for a few reasons. First of all, was the fact that we were travelling with our dog and by entering these 2 countries, we were exiting the European Union. No big deal there, as he has all his paper work and…
Dubrovnik | Croatia
Dubrovnik is definitely Croatia´s crowning jewel and approaching the city from any direction is a breathtaking experience. The ancient city clings to the mountainside, suspended in all her glory over the Adriatic sea, surrounded by medieval stone walls and ramparts, it´s impossible not to be impressed and not surprising that this city is so popular. In fact, her popularity would be her only drawback, especially when there are several cruise ships in the harbour but even so, there is always a quiet corner somewhere to sit and take it all in. SaveSave
Croatia
We almost didn´t go to Croatia, as we´d heard that wild camping is illegal and that the authorities are super strict and take some sort of peverse pleasure in rooting out campers and making life miserable. But then we decided just to go and see how it was, and if it sucked, we´d just keep moving through quickly. And OMG am I glad that we decided to go because since leaving Portugal and her glorious Atlantic coastline, this was the first place that we stopped and looked at each other and declared that “we could live here”. Croatia is incredibly…
Romania
Romania was so many things… it was beautiful but neglected, exciting but frustrating, so full of potential but with the unmistakable sense that it´s just not quite there… yet. By far the poorest country up until that point, it was quite the stark contrast from Slovenia and the tiny bit of Hungary that we saw while passing through. Infrastructure is lacking and Romania´s public struggles with corruption on every level have resulted in very few improvements since joining the European Union. The people, however, were wonderful. We had quite a bit of van trouble while in Romania, some of it due…
Slovenia
Slovenia is a tiny little country that we knew nothing about but were keen to explore. After the humid heat of Italy, it was great to get up into the mountains and lower temperatures, although we still had the occasional dramatic thunderstorm. Slovenia is gorgeous but, let it be said, not campervan friendly. Wild camping is illegal and you are required to book into camp sites to spend the night. We didn´t do this, because it would have wrecked the budget, and twice we were busted by cops in the early hours of the morning. Once we got away with…